Heraclitus and the TVA aside, I felt a strong sense of place and a connection to my great-great-grandfather as I stood by the Watauga River today. Herman Cone farmed along the Watauga during the Civil War, near Elizabethton, TN, which the locals pronounce with an emphasis on the "beth."
Prior to the war, Herman had been a prosperous merchant in nearby Jonesborough. That was Union country, though, and he was a Confederate sympathizer, which made things very uncomfortable in town. He and his partner, his cousin Jacob Adler, traded their store for adjacent farms on the river. Shortly after my great-grandfather, Sydney, was born in 1869, Herman and his wife, Helen, moved their family to Baltimore.
The store, called Cone and Adler, was on Main Street in Jonesborough, across from the Chester Inn. The building and the adjacent house in which my great-great-grandparents lived are gone, but the inn is still there, so Lisa and I saw the view Herman and Helen would have seen out their windows every day. We saw a lot of other sights that would have been familiar to them, including the Jonesboro (sic) Presbyterian Church, the
spire of which you can see in the photo at left, and the Blair-Moore
house on the left side of the street in the picture, and the Eureka Inn on the right.
Herman moved to Jonesborough from Richmond, taking the railroad to Big Lick (since renamed Roanoke) and then proceeding by wagon. Jonesborough was kind of a big deal back in the day. It had been the capital of the short-lived State of Franklin, and thrived as traffic boomed along the Great Stage Road (which ran from what is now Winston-Salem to Nashville). You can see from the 1840
Cunningham-Clayton home, at left, that at least some folks were living large.
Jonesborough is marketed as a tourist destination, complete with a storytelling center and festival, but it was quiet on this Labor Day Saturday. I hear there is good eating there and the venerable Eureka Inn boasts free wifi. We stayed a few minutes away in Johnson City at an O. Henry-like hotel called The Carnegie, just across from ETSU; it was quite nice, although you can do better than breakfast at the restaurant. The drive from Boone into Tennessee is beautiful, and of course the mountainous vista heading back toward GSO from Boone is as pretty as it gets.
It was an easy and worthwhile 27-hour vacation, and the dog was glad to see us when we got home.
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